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	<title>Roth IRA</title>
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	<pubDate>Fri, 21 Nov 2008 02:02:12 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Self Managed IRAs: Why You Must Have One If You&#8217;re Serious About Your Retirement</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/self-managed-iras-why-you-must-have-one-if-youre-serious-about-your-retirement</link>
		<comments>http://www.iraroth.net/self-managed-iras-why-you-must-have-one-if-youre-serious-about-your-retirement#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 21 Nov 2008 02:02:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Investments]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Roth IRA]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[ira]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[self managed]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Retiring soon? You need a self managed IRA. Self managed IRAs, or what can be sometimes be called self directed IRAS, are by far the best management vehicle for soon to be retirees, or for that matter anyone who plans to retire in the future, and that&#8217;s all of us.
Retiring in the future is going [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Retiring soon? You need a self managed IRA. Self managed IRAs, or what can be sometimes be called self directed IRAS, are by far the best management vehicle for soon to be retirees, or for that matter anyone who plans to retire in the future, and that&#8217;s all of us.</p>
<p>Retiring in the future is going to be a problem for those who want to retire comfortably. As the population ages and the tax base shrinks relative to those needing retirement pensions, pressure on government funds for retirees is going to grow. Those smart enough to recognize the problem need to act now, and a self directed IRA, preferably invested in real estate, is the best way to do it.</p>
<p>How serious is the problem for future retirees? A recent Social Security Administrations trustee report has found that by 2040 social security will not be able to meet full retirement benefits. Scary isn&#8217;t it?</p>
<p>An IRA, or an Individual Retirement Account, is a vehicle to direct money into a fund that is set up to provide for your retirement. And anyone serious about their retirement needs to plan and invest wisely for it, right now.</p>
<p>Why would you do that through a self managed IRA? Why not just save up for your retirement?</p>
<p>The answer is all to do with tax. The government has graciously allowed us all substantial tax benefits for planning for our retirement through an Individual Retirement Account.</p>
<p>Why would the government give you tax benefits for planning for your retirement? To encourage people to self fund their own retirement to take pressure off limited future public funds. I won&#8217;t go into all the tax benefits that attach to IRAs, except to say that if you&#8217;re serious about a comfortable retirement you simply must have your own IRA to help you plan and invest for your retirement. For more details on the tax advantages talk to your financial advisor.</p>
<p>Of course many people already have their own Individual Retirement Account. Problem is that these are set up through the banks and trustees and investment companies, which of course direct your IRA retirement funds into their own products. And the investment returns on these products are not spectacular. You won&#8217;t set yourself up with a comfortable pension on 6% or 8% return on investment.</p>
<p>Most IRA custodians only allow investments in a narrow range of investment vehicles like stocks, mutual funds, bonds and CDs.</p>
<p>However those in the know recognize that a self managed IRA is a far better vehicle to maximize returns on your retirement funds. If you rollover your current IRA into a self directed IRA you have full control over how, and where, your future retirement funds are invested, and far more potential to maximize your investment returns. And so to maximise your comfort level in retirement.</p>
<p>A self directed IRA custodian will allow you a much wider range of investments, and these include real estate.</p>
<p>Why would you want to invest your IRA into real estate, particularly in 2008 when the real estate market is in meltdown?</p>
<p>Firstly because real estate is always the best long term wealth creation tool, especially when it&#8217;s tax advantaged. It&#8217;s solid and less volatile than any other investment, and so allows you to borrow safely. Mortgages over real estate are much easier to obtain than, say, a loan to buy shares. Even in 2008.</p>
<p>And what about the current state of the property market? Why would anyone with a self managed IRA want to invest in real estate right now?</p>
<p>Because, like in any market, there are always fantastic opportunities available if you know where to look and how to invest. Not all real estate is a disaster, and there are some very good advisers with spectacular real estate investment opportunities available, even now.</p>
<p>One in particular offering no money down real estate investing opportunities to ordinary IRA and 401(k) investors (and ordinary credit investors) right now. Guaranteed returns and immediate equity, and backed by a solid investment strategy backed by a US public company with an impeccable record in real estate investing.</p>
<p>So if you&#8217;ve been thinking about your retirement, either in the short term or the long term, and either have your own IRA or need to set one up, do it. Set up your own self managed IRA or rollover into one, and get started planning and investing for your retirement, no money down, guaranteed.</p>
<p>You&#8217;ll be comfortable in your retirement if you do.</p>
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		<title>Why You Should Get A Roth IRA</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/why-you-should-get-a-roth-ira</link>
		<comments>http://www.iraroth.net/why-you-should-get-a-roth-ira#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 Nov 2008 19:50:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[IRA Questions]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Roth IRA]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[why]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.iraroth.net/?p=26</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[by Dave Bern
If you are looking for a way to save towards your retirement then you should consider getting a Roth IRA (Individual Retirement Account) or get a 401K that both large and small businesses offer their employees. After setting up you have the right to start making contributions towards it. But when making IRA [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="articlesbyline">by Dave Bern</div>
<p>If you are looking for a way to save towards your retirement then you should consider getting a Roth IRA (Individual Retirement Account) or get a 401K that both large and small businesses offer their employees. After setting up you have the right to start making contributions towards it. But when making IRA contributions you need to be aware of certain things and below we take a look at what these are in relation to a Roth IRA.</p>
<p>Firstly how much a person is able to contribute depends on their age. Anyone under the age of 50 can contribute $4,000 while those over 50 are entitled to contribute $4,500. There are no limitations on the age at which people are able to contribute to their Roth IRA plan. But 401k contribution limits vary considerably from those offered to you with an IRA.</p>
<p>One thing to be aware of when making contributions to a Roth IRA is the restrictions on what your gross taxable earnings can be. An individual must earn less than $110,000 per year. For a married couple who file a joint return the gross income must not exceed $160,000. And for couples, who file their returns separately,their combined gross income must not be above $100,000.</p>
<p>You need to be aware that your Roth IRA contributions will be reduced when you are actually contributing towards a traditional IRA as well. So if you are making contributions to both a Roth and Traditional IRA these should not exceed the total amount of contributions you are allowed to make in any given year. But with Roth IRA’s the contributions you make on these will be reduced if your income goes above a certain limit.</p>
<p>However you can use the conversion method to allow you to contribute towards a Roth IRA when you have a traditional one. All you have to do is take out some of the funds from your traditional IRA and then transfer these funds within 60 days into the Roth IRA. Although when you make Roth IRA contributions you are taxed on them. Any withdrawals made or funds distributed are not taxable.</p>
<p>You are not restricted to when you can make contributions to an IRA. But you must make sure that these contributions are made before you file your tax return even if you have been provided with an extension. Because IRA contributions are not tax deductible these should not be listed on a tax return.</p>
<p>As you can see from doing a little investigation just how important Roth IRA’s can be to making your retirement a financially stable one. So when planning your retirement you need to consider just how important getting an IRA is to it.</p>
<p>Above we have provided you with details regarding Roth IRA contributions and what things you need to be aware. It is also advisable that you discuss the matter with your financial adviser as they can help to ensure that you select the right one that will ensure that your retirement is a much happier one as well as being a more financially sound investment as well.</p>
<div class="articlesresource">
<div class="articlesabout">About the Author:</div>
<div class="articleslinks">It is never to early to start saving for your retirement yet? Are you making IRA contributions or in a 401k? For up to date information on retirement savings plans visit http://www.iracontributionsez.com.</div>
</div>
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		<title>Tax benefits to a Roth IRA Conversion</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/tax-benefits-to-a-roth-ira-conversion</link>
		<comments>http://www.iraroth.net/tax-benefits-to-a-roth-ira-conversion#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Nov 2008 04:16:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[IRA Questions]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Investments]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Roth IRA]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[conversion]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tax benefit]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.iraroth.net/?p=25</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Want to make lemonade from the lemons in your IRA? This year&#8217;s market tumble has handed you a recipe.
Usually IRA owners can&#8217;t take advantage of capital losses on their stocks and funds. Since earnings aren&#8217;t taxed year by year in such a retirement account, there&#8217;s no point harvesting losses to offset gains.
That maneuver only works [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-size: x-small;">Want to make lemonade from the lemons in your IRA? This year&#8217;s market tumble has handed you a recipe.</p>
<p>Usually IRA owners can&#8217;t take advantage of capital losses on their stocks and funds. Since earnings aren&#8217;t taxed year by year in such a retirement account, there&#8217;s no point harvesting losses to offset gains.</p>
<p>That maneuver only works for shareholders in their taxable accounts.</p>
<table border="0" align="left">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><img src="http://www.investors.com/images/editimg/funds111008.gif" alt="" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>But this year offers you a special opportunity. It involves converting a traditional IRA to a Roth IRA, which takes after-tax contributions but allows tax-free compounding of investments as well as withdrawals.</p>
<p>Any year that you convert a traditional IRA to a Roth IRA, you owe income tax on the amount transferred. The silver lining to 2008&#8217;s cloudy market performance is this: If your IRA assets have been devalued by the bear market — and whose haven&#8217;t been? — you&#8217;d owe less tax on any conversion.</p>
<p>You&#8217;re eligible to convert if your modified adjusted gross income this year, for marrieds filing jointly or singles, is $100,000 or less.</p>
<p>To do a conversion, tell the mutual fund group or bank that is your IRA custodian what you&#8217;d like to do. You&#8217;ll have to fill out some forms.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s an example that shows the advantage of a Roth IRA conversion now. Suppose a hypothetical Sue Adams retired at the end of 2007. Her MAGI this year is $95,000.</p>
<p>At the beginning of 2008, Adams rolled her 401(k) account into a traditional IRA. Her IRA was invested in stock funds worth $800,000.</p>
<p>If Adams had converted her traditional IRA to a Roth IRA in January 2008, she would have reported $800,000 of ordinary income. The $800,000 in income from the Roth IRA conversion does not count for determining if Adams is over the $100,000 MAGI limit. Assuming an effective 35% tax rate, Adams would have owed $280,000 in income tax on her conversion.</p>
<p><strong>Lower Levy</strong></p>
<p>Instead, Adams chose to keep her traditional IRA. Now those stock funds are worth only $500,000.</p>
<p>If she can convert to a Roth IRA now, at a 35% rate, Adams would owe only $175,000. So she&#8217;d save $105,000 in tax vs. converting her IRA early in the year.</p>
<p>Adams would still pay tax now. Why would she want to pay so much tax before it&#8217;s required?</p>
<p>Because once she&#8217;s 59 1/2 and her account is five years old, she can withdraw her principal and earnings tax free.</p>
<p>All Roth IRA conversions in 2008 have a Jan. 1, 2008, starting date, notes Ed Slott, a CPA who publishes the IRA Advisor newsletter.</p>
<p>So the five-year mark will be reached on Jan. 1, 2013, just over four years from now.</p>
<p>Suppose Adams&#8217; stock funds have rallied by then and her Roth IRA is back up to $800,000. She can withdraw all of it, including $300,000 of growth, and owe no more tax.</p>
<p>Adams does not have to convert the entire $800,000. She can convert part of it and owe tax only on the amount she converts.</p>
<p>Adams might convert another part in early 2009, if her MAGI for the year won&#8217;t exceed $100,000. If her stock funds are still depressed, she will owe relatively little tax for that conversion in 2009.</p>
<p>And she&#8217;ll have more low-priced stock funds in position for tax-free gains within her Roth IRA if the market recovers.</p>
<p>Nearly 170,000 taxpayers converted traditional IRAs to Roth IRAs in 2004, the latest year for which data is available. The total amount was over $2.8 billion.</p>
<p>What if you converted to a Roth IRA early this year, when your stocks and funds were worth much more than now?</p>
<p>You can undo the original conversion — known as recharacterizing. Now, if you convert a second time you&#8217;ll owe less tax. But IRS rules require you to wait until the next calendar year before doing the second conversion.</p>
<p>You could even delay the recharacterization. A 2008 Roth IRA conversion can be recharacterized up to Oct. 15, 2009, Slott says.</p>
<p>You can reconvert to a Roth IRA 30 days after recharacterizing or on or after Jan. 1 of the year after the conversion, whichever comes later.</p>
<p>Suppose Adams converted her IRA to a Roth IRA in January 2008. She recharacterizes in November 2008, reversing the conversion.</p>
<p>On Jan. 1, 2009, she can reconvert the account to a Roth IRA. But if Adams recharacterizes in December 2008, she&#8217;ll have to wait 30 days before reconverting.</p>
<p>Either way, she may owe less tax than she owed on her earlier conversion. That assumes her stock funds don&#8217;t make a big comeback by the earliest date in January when she can reconvert.</p>
<p>If stock funds continue to decline, any conversion to a Roth IRA now can be recharacterized by Oct. 15, 2009.</p>
<p>You can recharacterize and aim to reconvert each year at or near the market bottom. Then you&#8217;ll pay less tax and have more opportunity for tax-free growth.</p>
<p></span></p>
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		<title>2009 Traditional and Roth IRA Contribution Limits</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/2009-traditional-and-roth-ira-contribution-limits</link>
		<comments>http://www.iraroth.net/2009-traditional-and-roth-ira-contribution-limits#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Nov 2008 04:12:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[IRA Questions]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Investments]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Roth IRA]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[2009]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[contribution limits]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[roth]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[traditional]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.iraroth.net/?p=24</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[With less than two months to go before 2009, I though it would be worth taking a look at IRA contribution limits for 2009. As of 2008, contribution limits are indexed to inflation and will increase in $500 increments (as necessary). Unfortunately, there’s not much to report here, as the limits are staying the same [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With less than two months to go before 2009, I though it would be worth taking a look at IRA contribution limits for 2009. As of 2008, contribution limits are indexed to inflation and will increase in $500 increments (as necessary). Unfortunately, there’s not much to report here, as the limits are staying the same in 2009 as they were in 2008. What follows is a table of contributions limits starting back in 2002, and running through next year.</p>
<table border="1" width="60%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><strong>Year</strong></td>
<td><strong>Under Age 50</strong></td>
<td><strong>Age 50+</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2002-2004</td>
<td>$3,000/year</td>
<td>$3,500/year</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2005</td>
<td>$4,000/year</td>
<td>$4,500/year</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2006-2007</td>
<td>$4,000/year</td>
<td>$5,000/year</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2008</td>
<td>$5,000/year</td>
<td>$6,000/year</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2009</td>
<td>$5,000/year</td>
<td>$6,000/year</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The silver lining here is that the cutoffs for making Roth IRA contributions and for deducting Traditional IRA contributions have increased 2009.</p>
<h2>Roth IRA Contribution Thresholds</h2>
<p>If you’re married and filing jointly, you can make your full Roth IRA contribution as long as <a href="http://www.fivecentnickel.com/2006/11/10/what-is-modified-adjusted-gross-income-agi/">your modified adjusted gross income (MAGI)</a> is below $159k, and your ability to contribute phases out entirely at $169k. For single filers, the thresholds are $101k and $116k.</p>
<h2>Traditional IRA Deduction Thresholds</h2>
<p>If you’re married and filing jointly, you can make deduct your full Traditional IRA contributions as long as your <a href="http://www.fivecentnickel.com/2006/11/10/what-is-modified-adjusted-gross-income-agi/">modified adjusted gross income (MAGI)</a> is below $85k, and your ability to deduct contributions phases out entirely at $105k. For single filers, the thresholds are $53k and $63k.</p>
<h2>Deadlines for Contributing</h2>
<p>Remember, you can make 2008 contributions all the way up to April 15, 2009. As for 2009 contributions, you can start as early as January 2nd, 2009 with a deadline on the back end of April 15, 2010.</p>
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		<title>10 College Money Saving Myths</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/10-college-money-saving-myths</link>
		<comments>http://www.iraroth.net/10-college-money-saving-myths#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Aug 2008 16:51:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[College]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Investments]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Roth IRA]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[myths]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[saving for college]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.iraroth.net/?p=23</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Myth 1. Use the university medical plan. You need to understand your current medical insurance plan. Many plans have increased costs for out-of-network doctors, however, it could be even more expensive to use the medical insurance your school offers. Do a comparison of the plans and costs; just make sure you don’t go without any [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Myth 1. Use the university medical plan.</strong> You need to understand your current medical insurance plan. Many plans have increased costs for out-of-network doctors, however, it could be even more expensive to use the medical insurance your school offers. Do a comparison of the plans and costs; just make sure you don’t go without any insurance.</p>
<p><strong>Myth 2. You must wait until after college to start a retirement plan. </strong> College is a great time to start a Roth IRA. Put away some of the money you earn from your summer or part-time job in a Roth IRA during college. This was one of the key reasons I was able to leave the workforce at 29.</p>
<p><strong>Myth 3. You must pay your tuition with a check.</strong> Find out if you can pay your tuition on a credit card. If so you can use cash rewards credit cards to get cash back on your tuition. My aunt mentioned this weekend that was her plan. Great idea!</p>
<p><strong>Myth 4. Buy everything for your dorm room.</strong> Instead, give your new roommate a call. By coordinating bigger items, you’ll save some money and avoid showing up with two toasters and no t.v.</p>
<p><strong>Myth 5. Always use the meal plan.</strong> I can’t tell you how much money I wasted on the meal plan since you could only add money in $250 increments. Plan ahead and you won’t have to spend $200 on food in one week! In addition, be sure to check out other options for cheaper (and healthier) food choices.</p>
<p><strong>Myth 6. Keep using your hometown bank. </strong> You may want to explore local banks in your college town. Our university had a free credit union with branches all over campus. They had free ATMs, checking and savings accounts. It might be more convenient than your old bank.</p>
<p><strong>Myth 7. Buy everything you could possibly need. </strong> You can save a bundle by waiting to finish your shopping. Before leaving for school, I made sure to buy everything on those college checklists. It wasn’t until I was there that I realized I could still go to a store and buy some stuff; you might find you don’t even need it all to begin with.</p>
<p><strong>Myth 8. Assume your belongings are insured. </strong> Inform your insurance agent that you are moving out. Determine if your belongings will be insured under your homeowners policy, or check out a renters policy. You’ll also want to let them know if you are taking your car, as it will be garaged at a new location. Don’t end up uninsured in the event of a fire or other catastrophe.</p>
<p><strong>Myth 9. Student loans are the only option to finance your education. </strong> Being frugal in college doesn’t have to ruin your fun. Check out how to be a frugal college student for ideas.</p>
<p><strong>Myth 10. Buy your textbooks immediately. </strong> Wait until after your first class to see if you need a certain version of the recommended text. Other textbook tips for college students include shopping for books online and reselling them once you are finished.</p>
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		<title>Roth IRA Contribution Limits</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/roth-ira-contribution-limits</link>
		<comments>http://www.iraroth.net/roth-ira-contribution-limits#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2008 20:57:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Roth IRA]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[contribution limits]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[ira]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[roth]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.iraroth.net/?p=22</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[IRAs were created to encourage people to save for their retirement, by offering them a significant tax break.
They are intended for ordinary working people - not, for example, the wealthy (income limits prevent them from participating),
or trust fund kids too lazy to get a job (contributions have to be made from salary, not from investments [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>IRAs were created to encourage people to save for their retirement, by offering them a significant tax break.<br />
They are intended for ordinary working people - not, for example, the wealthy (income limits prevent them from participating),<br />
or trust fund kids too lazy to get a job (contributions have to be made from salary, not from investments or other income).</p>
<p>The rules for eligibility and contribution limits change every year.<br />
You can (and should) get the official rules from <a href="http://www.irs.gov/publications/p590/index.html">IRS Publication 590</a>;<br />
but to help make things clear, here is a quick and user-friendly (but not official!) summary:</p>
<p><strong>IRA Contribution Limits</strong></p>
<table border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="80%" align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>YEAR</td>
<td>AGE 49 &amp; BELOW</td>
<td>AGE 50 &amp; ABOVE</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2002-2004</td>
<td>$3,000</td>
<td>$3,500</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2005</td>
<td>$4,000</td>
<td>$4,500</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2006-2007</td>
<td>$4,000</td>
<td>$5,000</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2008</td>
<td>$5,000</td>
<td>$6,000</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>To summarize how all of the rules work:</p>
<ol>
<li> If your status is Married Filing Separately you are effectively locked out due to an extremely restrictive limit.<br />
(The rationale: the government doesn&#8217;t want to give you a tax break in case your spouse is high-income.<br />
The exception: if you and your spouse lived apart for the whole year, you get the same limits [and same bummer lifestyle] as a Single filer.)</li>
<li> If your status is anything else, then your contribution limit is (using 2008 numbers):<br />
<table border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<ul>
<li> $5000 if your income is low enough (and $6000 if you&#8217;re 50 or older)</li>
<li> zero (that is, you can&#8217;t contribute at all) if your income is too high</li>
<li> a sliding scale somewhere in between, if your income is somewhere in between &#8220;low enough&#8221; and &#8220;too high&#8221;</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</li>
<li> In case you have multiple IRAs, the limit is the total you are allowed to contribute to all of them</li>
<li> And in all cases, your total contributions can&#8217;t be greater than your reported salary income.</li>
</ol>
<h4>If you don&#8217;t qualify&#8230;</h4>
<p>If your income is too high to make a Roth IRA contribution, you may still be eligible for a traditional deductible IRA<br />
if neither you nor your spouse is covered by a retirement plan at work.<br />
See <a href="http://www.irs.gov/publications/p590/index.html">IRS Publication 590</a>.<br />
(Look under &#8220;Traditional IRAs&#8221;.)</p>
<h4>Penalties</h4>
<p>A Roth IRA is intended to be a retirement account, so penalties apply if you misuse it by withdrawing funds too early.<br />
As a rule, you should plan not to make any withdrawals until at least age 59½ or five years after you make your first contribution, whichever comes later.<br />
This rule does have exceptions: see<br />
<a href="http://www.irs.gov/publications/p590/index.html">IRS Publication 590</a><br />
for details. (Search for &#8220;Qualified Distributions&#8221;.)</p>
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		<title>Understanding the Roth IRA</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/understanding-the-roth-ira</link>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jul 2008 20:53:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Roth IRA]]></category>

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		<category><![CDATA[understanding]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[A Roth IRA is an Individual Retirement Account that provides tax-free growth. 	As a result, it&#8217;s the simplest - and potentially the most effective - sheltered account imaginable.
The Roth Tax Advantage
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A Roth IRA is an Individual Retirement Account that provides tax-free growth. 	As a result, it&#8217;s the simplest - and potentially the most effective - sheltered account imaginable.</p>
<h4>The Roth Tax Advantage</h4>
<p><!--<H3>Tax Structure of a Roth IRA</H3>&#8211;>Like a deductible IRA, Roth gives you the advantage of getting taxed only once, rather than twice (or more) as with a regularly-taxed investment account. Here is a summary of how it works:</p>
<table border="0" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="3" width="550" bgcolor="#003399">
<tbody>
<tr bgcolor="#f0f0f0">
<td align="center">Regularly-Taxed Account</td>
<td align="center">Deductible IRA</td>
<td align="center">Roth IRA</td>
</tr>
<tr bgcolor="#ffffff">
<td valign="top">You pay income tax, and then make your contribution with post-tax dollarsYour principal may be subject to taxes on dividends and capital gains as it grows</p>
<p>You pay capital gains tax on your gain at withdrawal</td>
<td valign="top">You get a tax deduction, essentially letting you deposit pre-tax dollarsYour principal grows tax-free<br />
You pay income tax on the entire amount of your withdrawal</td>
<td valign="top">You pay income tax, and then make your contribution with post-tax dollarsYour principal grows tax-free<br />
You pay no further taxes on withdrawal.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The advantage of a Roth IRA over a regularly-taxed account is obvious. 	Either way you pay income tax up front. 	But with Roth, you&#8217;re then done paying taxes; with a regular account you&#8217;re just getting started.</p>
<p>The advantage of a Roth IRA over a deductible IRA is <em>almost</em> obvious:</p>
<ul>
<li> Roth is simple: it requires no special reporting to the IRS. (With a deductible IRA you have to report a deduction on your 1040 form when you make a contribution; on withdrawal you report the entire withdrawal amount as taxable income.)</li>
<li> Roth has an extra advantage if you think taxes will probably rise in the future, since you&#8217;re paying now rather than later. 		(Of course that&#8217;s a disadvantage if you think taxes will fall.)</li>
<li> Roth has an additional, somewhat confusing advantage that it lets you shelter more real money: 		the same dollar amount, but in post-tax, rather than pre-tax dollars. 		(The idea is that a tax deduction isn&#8217;t &#8220;money you&#8217;re getting back&#8221;; it&#8217;s &#8220;money you <em>aren&#8217;t sheltering</em>&#8220;.) 		This issue is analyzed, in more detail than you probably want to see, in a sidebar article.</li>
</ul>
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		<title>Financial Calculators: Roth IRA</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/financial-calculators-roth-ira</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:24:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Roth IRA]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[calculators]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Try our financial calculators!
Please try our wide variety of financial calculators. Interactive calculations, dynamic graphs and fully customizable reports are just a few of the features that make our calculators stand out!
Roth IRA Calculator Use this calculator to compare the Roth IRA to an ordinary taxable investment
Roth IRA Conversion This calculator will show the advantage, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h1>Try our financial calculators!</h1>
<p>Please try our wide variety of financial calculators. Interactive calculations, dynamic graphs and fully customizable reports are just a few of the features that make our calculators stand out!</p>
<p><a href="http://www.finance.cch.com/sohoAPPLETS/RothIRA.asp" target="_blank">Roth IRA Calculator</a> Use this calculator to compare the Roth IRA to an ordinary taxable investment</p>
<p><a href="http://www.finance.cch.com/sohoAPPLETS/RothTransfer.asp" target="_blank">Roth IRA Conversion</a> This calculator will show the advantage, if any, of converting your IRA to a Roth</p>
<p><a href="http://www.finance.cch.com/sohoAPPLETS/RothvsRegular.asp" target="_blank">Roth vs. Traditional IRA</a> Use this calculator to determine which IRA may be right for you.</p>
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		<title>Why You Need a Roth IRA</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/why-you-need-a-roth-ira</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:06:25 +0000</pubDate>
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		<category><![CDATA[Roth IRA]]></category>

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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.iraroth.net/?p=19</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This article was updated in 2008.
One of the smartest money moves a young person can make is to invest in a Roth IRA. Follow the rules and any money you put into one of these retirement-savings accounts grows absolutely tax free &#8212; you won&#8217;t owe Uncle Sam a dime as you let your savings accumulate, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>This article was updated in 2008.</em></p>
<p>One of the smartest money moves a young person can make is to invest in a Roth IRA. Follow the rules and any money you put into one of these retirement-savings accounts grows absolutely tax free &#8212; you won&#8217;t owe Uncle Sam a dime as you let your savings accumulate, or when you cash it out in retirement. Plus, an IRA is more flexible than a 401(k) and other retirement plans because you can invest it in almost whatever you want, from stocks and mutual funds to bonds and real estate.</p>
<p>If you haven&#8217;t yet opened this gift from Uncle Sam, do it now. <!--You have until your tax return deadline to set up and make contributions for the previous tax year. -->The government sets a limit on how much you can contribute to a Roth. That limit <!--was $4,000 in 2007, and it -->is $5,000 in 2008. <!--That means if you act before April 15, you can invest $4,000 right now to count for last year, giving you a solid start to your savings. And you have until <i>next year&#8217;s</i> tax deadline to kick in your $5,000 for 2008.&#8211;></p>
<p>The idea of saving on your taxes may seem a tad obscure, but it really can pay off big. If a 25-year-old contributes $5,000 each year until she retires and makes an average annual return of 8% on her investment, she&#8217;ll have $1.4 million saved by the time she retires at age 65. And the money is all hers &#8212; she won&#8217;t have to give the IRS a cent of it if she waits until retirement to cash out. (<a href="http://partners.leadfusion.com/tools/kiplinger/savings02/tool.fcs">Use this calculator</a> to see how far your savings can take you. Enter &#8220;0&#8243; in the tax rate boxes to simulate the tax-exempt status of a Roth IRA.)</p>
<p>If that same 25-year-old invested that same $5,000 a year in a regular taxable account earning the same 8% return, she&#8217;d only have about $1 million after 40 years if her earnings were taxed at 15% federal. That&#8217;s more than one-fourth less money than if she&#8217;d gone with the Roth. If she owed state taxes on the money too, she&#8217;d be down even more.</p>
<h3>Roth rules</h3>
<p>As with any government gift, the Roth IRA comes with a few strings attached. First, you can contribute to a Roth only if you have earned income from a job. Say you&#8217;re in school, you&#8217;re not working and you have a little extra money left over from your student loan or your parents gave you money. You cannot put it in a Roth. Also, you cannot save more than you made. So if you worked a summer job and made only $3,000, the most you can contribute to a Roth is $3,000.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s also possible to make too much. You can contribute the full $5,000 in 2008 as long as your income falls below $101,000 if you&#8217;re single, and $159,000 if you&#8217;re married filing a joint tax return. The contribution limit is then phased out incrementally if you make between $101,000 and $116,000 (single) or $159,000 and $169,000 (married-joint). (See <a href="http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p590.pdf" target="_blank">IRS Publication 590</a> for more on calculating your contribution.) Make more than those upper limits, and you don&#8217;t have to cash out the account &#8212; you simply cannot contribute any more money to a Roth IRA.</p>
<p>If you expect to exceed the Roth income limits at some point during your career, you should open a Roth now while you&#8217;re young and your salary is low enough to get in. If a 25-year-old saved $5,000 a year for only five years, then didn&#8217;t contribute another dime for the next 35 years because his income was too high, that money would continue to grow &#8212; to nearly $481,000 by the time he turned 65. That alone certainly won&#8217;t be enough to retire on, but it&#8217;ll be a nice tax-free bonus to his other retirement savings.</p>
<h3>Bonus!</h3>
<p>If the savings power, flexibility and tax-free status aren&#8217;t enough to convince you of the Roth&#8217;s virtues, Uncle Sam throws in a few extra perks, making the Roth an indispensable tool in a young adult&#8217;s financial life.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>You can take money out in a pinch.</strong> Although the purpose of a Roth is to save for retirement, and your money can grow only if you leave it in the account, you can withdraw your contributions at any time, tax free and without penalty &#8212; and you don&#8217;t have to pay it back, <a href="http://www.kiplinger.com/personalfinance/basics/archives/2003/04/401k4.html">like you do with a 401(k)</a>. Of course, it&#8217;s best to leave your money in the account so you can earn more money, and you really should have a separate <a href="http://www.kiplinger.com/personalfinance/columns/starting/archive/2006/st0209.htm">emergency savings account</a> on standby, but it&#8217;s nice to know the Roth is there for you if you need it.
<p>Notice we said you can take out your <em>contributions</em> at any time &#8212; not your earnings. If you withdraw any of your <em>earnings</em> before age 59½, you&#8217;ll trigger a tax bill on the money, plus you&#8217;ll have to pay a 10% penalty. Ouch.</li>
<li><strong>You can tap your Roth to buy your first home.</strong> The IRS lets you cash out up to $10,000 from your Roth IRA tax- and penalty-free &#8212; which can include earnings &#8212; to help you achieve the American dream. However, the account must have been opened for five years. You could use tax-free money from your IRA to buy a house starting in January 2011. That $10,000 limit is per person, so couples could withdraw up to $20,000.
<p>If you don&#8217;t meet the five-year test, you still can take out the money for your home purchase, but you&#8217;ll have to pay taxes on it. You won&#8217;t have to pay the 10% early-withdrawal penalty, though.</li>
<li><strong>You can use it to save for Junior&#8217;s education.</strong> Many new parents don&#8217;t know whether to save for retirement or the baby&#8217;s college tuition. Hands down, retirement wins. There are loans to pay for college, but none to help fund your retirement. But starting a Roth is a great way to cover both bases, just in case. Focus on your retirement now, saving as much into a Roth as you can. And as your finances allow, consider opening a specific college-savings account for the new baby &#8212; say, a Coverdell or 529 plan. Then, when the day comes for Junior to head off to school, you can assess whether you can afford to &#8212; or need to &#8212; sacrifice some of your retirement dollars to make it happen.
<p>You can, of course, take out your contributions at any time to help pay the bill. If you dip into earnings, you&#8217;ll owe taxes &#8212; but you don&#8217;t have to pay the 10% early-withdrawal penalty if you use the money for college. The Roth shouldn&#8217;t be used as the sole savings vehicle for higher education, but it&#8217;s nice to know you can use it if you need it.</li>
</ul>
<h3>How to open a Roth IRA</h3>
<p>When you&#8217;re just getting started investing, the Roth should be your first stop &#8212; even before you open a regular, taxable account, or contribute to a workplace retirement-savings plan. The only exception is if your employer offers a match on your 401(k) contributions. That&#8217;s free money you don&#8217;t want to pass up. In that case, contribute enough to win the match, then send any extra money into a Roth IRA. (Yes, you <em>can</em> invest in both a Roth and a workplace retirement plan.)</p>
<p>You can invest your Roth IRA in almost anything &#8212; stocks, bonds, mutual funds, CDs, or even real estate. It&#8217;s easy to open an account. If you want to invest in stocks, go with a discount broker (<a href="http://www.kiplinger.com/tools/online_brokers/">see how different companies compare</a>). For mutual funds, go with a fund company. For CDs or money market accounts, you can go through your bank.</p>
<p>Because you&#8217;re young and have a long way to retirement, you&#8217;ll want to invest in the stock market to get the highest returns over time. Rookie investors should stick to mutual funds that invest in stocks. They&#8217;re easy to understand, you leave the stock-picking to the pros and they make it easy to spread your risk around several stocks or bonds without putting all your eggs in one basket.</p>
<p>Most mutual fund companies even lower their minimum investment requirements when you open an IRA. T. Rowe Price, for example, requires $2,500 to invest in a taxable account, but IRA investors need only $1,000 to get started &#8212; or as little as $50 a month if you sign up with its automatic investing program.</p>
<p>Use <a href="http://www.kiplinger.com/tools/fundfinder/">Fund Finder</a> to search for funds with low investment minimums and that meet your other criteria. Stick to no-load funds with low expense ratios (the average expense ratio for stock funds is about 1.5%). And check out <a href="http://www.kiplinger.com/columns/starting/archive/2005/st0310.htm">How to Invest With $500 or Less</a> for some specific low-cost fund recommendations, and for more information on diversifying and evaluating your investment options.</p>
<p>Many fund companies will let you open an account and make contributions online. Make sure you designate what year the contributions are for.</p>
<p>Not sure where to find the money to fund your account? Consider investing your tax refund. About 70% of us will get a refund this year, and last year the average check totaled more than $2,000. That cash would make a great start to your Roth.</p>
<p>Another way to fund your account is to put it on autopilot. Most banks and brokers will allow you to set up an automatic investment plan taking the money directly out of your bank account and putting it into your Roth. It&#8217;s much easier to find the cash when it&#8217;s considered already gone than if you have to make a physical effort to write the check each month.</p>
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		<title>Roth IRA Questions: Withdrawl</title>
		<link>http://www.iraroth.net/withdrawl</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 04:49:49 +0000</pubDate>
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		<category><![CDATA[IRA Questions]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Q. I intend to retire at age 50. When I do, I&#8217;ll need income. Can I take money from my Roth IRA without paying any taxes or penalties?
A. Potentially, yes. Under the IRS ordering rules, you are allowed to remove your original contributions at any time without tax or penalty. In addition, after you&#8217;ve waited [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Q. I intend to retire at age 50. When I do, I&#8217;ll need income. Can I take money from my Roth IRA without paying any taxes or penalties?</p>
<p>A. Potentially, yes. Under the IRS ordering rules, you are allowed to remove your original contributions at any time without tax or penalty. In addition, after you&#8217;ve waited at least five tax years, you&#8217;re able to withdraw your original converted amounts without taxes or penalties. It&#8217;s only when you get to the earnings generated by the original contributions and conversions that you will have a tax and/or penalty problem.</p>
<p>Even if you do determine that you&#8217;ll have to break into the earnings prior to age 59-1/2, you may still avoid the penalty (but not necessarily the tax). If you remove the funds from your Roth IRA account using a distribution method that is part of a scheduled series of substantially equal periodic payments made over your life expectancy (and the life expectancy of your beneficiary), you may still be penalty-free.</p>
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